I can't tell you chicken or egg, but I can say for sure I don't want to go hungry, and I'm not replacing my new flexplate because of a messed up starter gear. With that, I'm ordering a new drive gear because parts stores don't carry parts.
Along with that, I'm ordering a universal sender that I can pull the rheo from. After looking around for a bit, I found that a Dorman part should do the trick (part # 55818). Unfortunately, I've got a feeling that the tank will need to be dropped again once a couple years have passed. Part of the housing is plastic, and I'm just not sold on it lasting for as long as I want. The other detail is the way the rheostat is built.
The resistor element looks to be a PCB type, kinda like cheap heating boards and such are made. While it looks like etching a board would result in a more durable product than wrapping resistor wire around a strip of phenolic, I would expect that this approach has become the standard in part due to cost. These boards don't cost a lot to make/have made. Depending on how many sacrifices are made at the altar of profit maximization, the copper layer may be less long-lived than a wire-wound part. This is all speculation, though, so we'll see what happens!
I was working on setting placement of my mufflers, which called for removing the chrome trim on the rear wheel wells and fitting the totally rad fender flares in place. Things need a good washing and proper mounting before they'll look good enough for pictures, but I was happy with what I saw. I was not happy with getting the damn screws off that held the trim in place, though.
I soaked the screws in penetrating oil of a few varieties over a long period of time, though none seemed to do much. I also started trying to use a screw extractor, but the godawful Bosch drill bits I have (the only set I have with the necessary size bit) wouldn't drill more than 1/64" into the screw head before going dull. I managed to get them free by using my spring-loaded center punch. I just seated the business end in the center of the cross in the screw head and actuated it 6 or 7 times. The screws didn't come out easily, but they still came out.
Finishing touches were made to the trans cooler lines, which are now ready for final install. The necessary 3/8 line fittings were installed in the trans, too. While getting the fittings, I also got a 1/8 tee and hex nipple for the oil pressure gauge and light senders, assembled them, and sweated the joint to prevent loosening and leaks.
I had hoped to use cardboard shipping tubes and pvc 90s for the exhaust mock-up, but neither of these items are sold anywhere around here in 2-½". I'll be figuring that all out tomorrow, and hopefully getting started on hacking up more tubing. First, a short nap.
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